StillMovin

DONE!

2011-07-21T09:07:00.000-07:00

A time-lapse photography account of the 2011 summer solstice along the Dalton Highway, Alaska.

The Quest

2011-06-23T05:41:00.000-07:00

June 10 - 15, 2011

I finally arrived at Fairbanks, Alaska and established a base camp at the China River State Recreation Site to prepare for my trip up Dalton Highway (The Haul Road) to the Arctic Circle.

The campground host and his wife had spent two seasons up that way as hosts at another campground. What a treasure trove of information they proved to be for me.

My Achilles Heel was the size and load range of the tires on my canoe trailer so I rented a 10 X 25 mini storage unit for two weeks and put my trailer, canoe and extra gear in there.

I headed out on the final leg of my quest to the Arctic Circle the morning of June 15, 2011. Destination: Gobbler's Knob as suggested by the Campground Hosts.

June 16 -20, 2011

I arrived at Gobbler's Knob and set up camp atop it. Just how I did that; I will not publicly post. Suffice it to say, I had a lot of help from others. I spent the rest of the 16th and the 17th preparing for the shooting of the video of the summer solstice.

The start time would be about 1:00 am Alaska Time. All set for a test run. Then I turned on the computer. Outdoors with the daylight I had been searching for and all I could see in the screen was a reflection of myself, three days unshaven and ugly as sin.

Okay! Cover it with a small tarp and get on with it. WRONG!!! The mosquitoes and blackflies that the breeze had been keeping at bay took full advantage of the shelter provided by the tarp.

Are the bugs really that bad? YES! THEY REALLY ARE THAT BAD!

Tally for the battle:

BUGS WON

GEORGE ZERO

FAILURE!!! All that I can say is "I tried".

I spent the next 20 hours hauling my gear down to the Jeep. It was between 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 miles one way. I made it in 10 trips. The hardest part was the deep cycle marine battery for the inverter and the 1500 watt generator to recharge the battery with. I spent 5 hours on those two items alone.

Disgusted and Discouraged: I refuse to give up!

I set up the equipment there in the parking area with the computer in the Jeep. The compromise: manmade objects in the picture and no walking stick.

I started over with the test run. The weather was perfect. I ran the program for the first time with some technical issues and a few miscalculations on my part but I got some good shots.

The following night I set up again. I had worked through some of the technical issues and started earlier. I got some better results but the weather was less than co-operative.

Before the third night's attempt the rain had set in and I headed back to Fairbanks. I'm confident that I have enough material to put something together that I feel is respectable.

Back in Fairbanks the first order of business was a bath for the Jeep before the mud dried. It needed an oil change and I wouldn't do that to a mechanic. Thirty dollars later it was clean enough. It gets a new air filter too, regardless.

When I went to get a site back at the campground the host and his wife wanted to hear my stories. After that the conversation turned to the "Road". As the host says, "Pictures can't convey the experience. You have to drive it!" I told them that I drove it at 40 to 45 mph when the speed limit is 50. Parts are paved and they give you a false sense of security; frost heaves and pavement breaks at any point; loose gravel placed on top of the asphalt to smooth the potholes make it feel like you are driving on ball bearings. Uphill grades are bad and downhill even worse.

I shared the story of a pick-up truck with an ATV in the bed who was on my rear bumper and no place for me to pull over and let him by. He blew past me on a double yellow line then when he hit the next set of dips and pavement breaks. All I could see were brake lights as he tried to regain control. In the next ten miles he never gained more than one city block on me. The campground host's wife slapped me a big high-five as she laughed over that one.

The campground host finished by saying "You started out coming up here not knowing how you were going to do what you wanted to do. Now what you are taking away is a memory that you will carry with you to your grave. And somewhere, someone among your family and friends, 10 - 15 or even 20 years from now will say if that old man could do something like that then I can too!"

I have to say I think he is right. And to those of you that he is referring too I would like to say: Yes! You can and in my heart I hope you do. The experience is worth it. No matter what your quest may be. On my trip back to Fairbanks I came across a woman coming up a steep hill on a reclining bike. I will never know if she was going to the next side road or all the way to Prudhoe Bay, but I will remember that she was going.

StillMovin

In closing this blog entry I want to say,

To THE GREATEST WIFE ON EARTH,

      THANK YOU BETTY

      for letting me try!

      I LOVE YOU!

Fun!

2011-06-10T07:45:00.000-07:00

June 4 -9, 2011

I found wifi again. I'm sure it was available in Whitehorse too. Only I hit there during rush hour and I didn't think towing the trailer would work very well. I did use the cell phone service to let my support team know that I was O. K. Now I am in Beaver Creek, Yukon.

Thank you Sue Tornow for the idea for this entry to the blog. When I down loaded my pictures from the last four days I had taken 312 pictures. So this entry is for the grandkids and anyone else with a sense of humor.

Left click on this picture to find the moose.

Here is the same moose closer. It looked at me for the picture when I started talking to it. You didn't know that Grandpa knew how to talk moose did you?

Left click on this picture to find the third water fall.

I talked to this Stone Sheep too, so he would pose for this picture.

This picture was taken at 3:00 am and the sun was starting to shine on the mountain top.

I am totally in awe of the scenery up here. They build roads where it is easiest and cheapest so nearly every where you look there are mountains around you. Sometimes far away and sometimes really close to you or under you.

The strech of road that I just traveled from Destruction Bay to Beaver Creek has been the worst so far. The perma-frost that it is built upon is shifting breaking the road. The temporary fix is to just cover it with gravel. While they do that the dust is really bad so they use a watertruck to keep the dust down. Water and dirt make mud. I don't know which is worse. I can't complain cause I can't offer anything better.

Enjoy, until next time. Tomorrow to Alaska.

Leaving Dawson Creek

2011-06-04T12:38:00.000-07:00

June 4, 2011

Today is sunshine. I'll evaluate my supplies and restock as necessary. MilePost says that there will be long stretches of road with no cell service so I may not be able to blog for 7-9 days. Until then please wish me luck; I am truly enjoying this adventure.

At Dawson Creek

2011-06-04T12:02:00.000-07:00

June 1, 2011

I left Gunn, Alberta and made Dawson Creek, British Columbia for the night. At the Provincial Line between Alberta and British Columbia I stopped to take pictures of the welcome signs. Coming into Alberta I hadn't taken a picture. I wasn't sure if the customs agents would want me to stop and take their picture. As I was walking back from that I could see the right trailer tire had lost some air. I couldn't have asked for a better place for that to happen than in the turnout. I change both tires and, using the chain and floor jack, rebent the axle to align the new tires and wheels. That leaves me with one unused spare and one used spare. My rough guess is that the first set had gone about 8 thousand miles. I should be okay.

This Mile "0" Campground has good wifi speed and I want to get my blog caught up to date before I start up the Alaska Highway.

Jeff Judge was in the campsite next to me. He is in the Air Force and he and his family are traveling to his new duty station in Louisiana. They have been in Alaska for the past four years and he gave me some pointers and suggested I pick up a copy of the MilePost.

June 2, 2011

It was beautiful today near 80 degrees and I worked on the blog did laundry and picked up a copy of the MilePost. Basically a log book of the routes in Alaska, B.C., Alberta,and the Yukon that tells you what to expect nearly every mile of the way. It lets you take (plan) a trip from your armchair and has an online version too. A very good 30 dollar investment.

June 3,

It rained most of the night and started snowing by daybreak. Cold and snow till late evening.

Late last night two motorcycle riders came in. Heading for Prudhoe Bay, I asked them why, thinking work. Because it is there was the answer.

This morning I asked them where their spare tires were. They had shipped them ahead and were waiting for them in Fairbanks. Okay! I'm not worried for them anymore but if I find them in trouble along the way I'll help however I can.

Forgetful Worries

2011-06-03T12:48:00.000-07:00

May 29, 2011

I moved from Three Forks to Great Falls, Montana and north of Helena went through what they call "Gates of The Mountains". A very pretty area with the rock formations and no place to pull over for pictures. At times like these I feel there can be a justifiable need for a drive-by shooter. I'll drive, you shoot! With a camera.

In Great Falls I picked up a new set of tires and rims for the trailer and a chain. The weight and the roads have bent the axle and the tires are wearing unevenly. I'll go till they blow.

I tried the Internet again. Grrrrrr!!!!

Headed for the border! Not Taco Bell either.

May 30, 2011

I cleared customs; they think I'm crazy. Oh well, I am!

Alberta, in this area is a lot like the Great Plains with the Sweetgrass Hills going north from the border. Not a whole lot to look at but the mountains and foothills to the west. I can make good time here towing at 90-95. Kilometers! 55-60 miles per hour.

Camped at Carstairs north of Calgary and discovered I had left the power cord to my laptop charger in the laundry area of the campground in Great Falls, Montana. If I can't replace it that will be the end of my idea for this blog and the time lapse video I want to make of the sun staying up for 24 hours. The computer controls the camera.

I called part of my support team, Betty, Amanda and Alison. I love them so much and not just for all the help they have been with this trip. Alison said there are six Best Buy stores in the Edmonton area. Yea!

May 31, 2011

I left Carstairs, Alberta looking for a Best Buy in Edmonton. I rounded a curve at Red Deer and there was a Best Buy. I worked my way back to it from the next exit. I wanted just the cord but it was not to be found on the shelf. Second choice would be to buy a new charger. I needed a 120 watt charger and the ones they had were 70 and 90 watts. I went to the Geek Squad counter. The girl there looked at my charger, went in the back, came back with a cord and said "Don't lose this one! To replace that charger it will cost you 130 dollars." I asked her how much I owed her for the cord and she said "Have a nice day and a safe trip. It was just laying around back there."

Someone is looking out for me. Thank you!

I made it around Edmonton on the bypass (orange barrel season here to). In Canada I still haven't mastered the road signage but in the construction zones everyone obeys the speed limits. I was told it was because they couldn't afford the photo enforced fines and the fines in construction zones are doubled here too.

I camped at Gunn Lake campground and the amenities of the commercial campgrounds seem to be getting more primitive. Rustic is one thing, primitive another. One bathroom with a shower stall in the General Store which closes at 7:00pm.

I thought about getting up to take pictures of the two freight trains that passed in the night but didn't. The camera angle would have been looking right up the 20 foot embankment next to my campsite showing only the lights of the engines. That was a shot that would have taken prior planning.

Three Forks, Montana---No Spoons---Just wifi?

2011-06-03T10:22:00.000-07:00

May 26 -28, 2011

I packed up and moved to Yellowstone National Park. The trip was a little like driving through a snow tunnel. The road was clear and dry but you couldn't see anything other than the banks and drifts of snow the plows had moved. Went to Old Faithful first to get pictures. It started snowing. White steam against an overcast sky of low clouds is no picture in my book.

I figured it was time for me to leave before I got snowed in. On the way out I saw Buffalo grazing in the snow along the road. I stopped for pictures and didn't realize that I had turned off the auto focus. They didn't turn out well. At lower elevations I got out of the snow.

At West Yellowstone, Montana I found a laundromat with showers. I took advantage of both then headed to Three Forks, Montana.

On the way there a truck was headed up the canyon, me headed down, deer in the middle. Pro basketball players can only dream of ever doing what that deer did going up the side of that canyon.

Camp Three Forks had mini cabins and wifi. I rented one so that I could get this blog up and running. Wifi I am learning is not all that it is cracked up to be. All wifi servers are not created equal. Enough said.

The Grand Tetons

2011-06-02T11:50:00.000-07:00

May 23, 2011

Riverton, Wyoming to the Grand Tetons was rather uneventful with some rain. In the park at the turnouts I tried to select spots for pictures if the weather would change.

I stopped at the visitors center and bought a Seniors Lifetime Pass for $10.00. Entrance fee for me and up to five others is now free and camping is half-off. Betty found this one for me too. I think Uncle Chuck had told me about it years ago but I had forgotten. Imagine that! I guess being over 62 has a few perks.

I camped at Signal Mountain campground.

May 24, 2011

I woke to rain and cold but there was free wifi at Signal Mountain Lodge so I cleaned up my e-mail inbox and caught up on the news. The weather cleared a little in the afternoon and I worked on organizing my stuff a little more. I decided to stay one more day to try for pictures. The morning shift clerk at the convenience store, Chris Hall, has the same model camera that I do and he was giving me leads on spots for good views weather permitting.

May 25, 2011

I woke early to calm but overcast and went down to the picnic area by the lake for pictures if possible. Walking the shore toward the boat launch I spotted a patch of blue sky. Headed back to my campsite and got ready to head out. Left for a full and nearly prefect day of sightseeing and picture taking.

Sturgis Then West

2011-06-02T11:18:00.000-07:00

May 22, 2011

I got up early on a Sunday morning to get pictures of Sturgis, South Dakota so that I could say to the motorcycle enthusiasts "Been there didn't do that."

Bars (saloons) started as far as 10 miles out of town with mini cabins to rent and names like Broken Spoke, Dragpipe, Full Throttle and Knuckle Saloon. It must be one very big event and the area is pretty to boot.

Then the rain and wind started. I tried to drive I-90 but with the headwinds and 75mph speed limit there was no way I wanted to drive it even on a Sunday morning. I got off at Sundance, Wyoming after 50 miles. I followed the two lanes down to Newcastle and across to Casper.

Saw antelope grazing along the roadside in Waverly like goats mowing a lawn and out in pastures with the herds of cattle. Not like the ones we saw in North Dakota nearly 34 years ago. I guess they have learned to adapt to encroachment.

I picked Powder River to refuel. WRONG!!! Not much there anymore and I would be on fumes if I could reach Shoshoni. I stopped at a rest area to ask someone about fuel. None was the answer. Here Goes! About three miles further on I caught sight of two pumps tucked in by a building, the name of the business was Brightspot. I told the lady it was for me too.

Made it to Riverton. Wal-Mart, K-Mart like a shopping meca and only 10,000 population. I was told that it was for most of western Wyoming, along with Casper. Still the nearest lumber yard was 125 miles away.

I picked up two 5 gallon and one 2 gallon gas cans but won't fill them until I have to. I don't need to carry the weight right now. But, "Lesson Learned"!

Water

2011-06-02T10:14:00.000-07:00

May 21, 2011

It rained during the night, but stopped by daybreak. Then the winds took over. I think I am learning how to type a four letter weather word without looking at the keyboard. Maybe I am learning a couple of them.

I started west on US-12 a little east of Roscoe, South Dakota a sign warned of one lane road ahead. I topped the rise and found a ten minute traffic light (red of course) and this.

The speed limit was 10mph and if you went over that your tires would hydroplane and drift you toward the ditches. I straddled the centerline and looked down at it under 8" of water. I just had to stop and take pictures of it.

If they close the road as this trucker fears it will add it will add 100 miles to each of his trips hauling grain to an ethanol plant. On a good day he can make 5 trips, but not if they close the road. To say nothing of the extra fuel (6 miles to the gallon).

I went to Mobridge, South Dakota to see Sitting Bull's grave. The map showed his burial site as being near Fort Yates, North Dakota and I wanted to know why. His relatives got his remains moved. Digital cameras are great for taking notes.

Down US-83 and picked up US-212 to go through the Cheyenne River Indian Reservation and made it to Sturgis, South Dakota for the night.

Lost

2011-06-02T09:27:00.000-07:00

May 20, 2011
Broke camp as the rain started and the weekend campers were bringing in their rigs before they went to work for the day. It is Friday and campsites are first come / first serve.
The wind picked up after the rain stopped but it stayed cloudy all day. That sure doesn't help with the picture taking that I want to do. I missed my turn at Ortonville and end up driving 13 miles on a scenic rode before I could find a place to turn around. It ended up being the prettiest part of the day's drive.

Crossed in to South Dakota and it was raining hard no pictures of the state line welcome sign.
At Waubay, South Dakota in the Blue Dog Lake area waterfront properties and buildings were flooded. Roadside ditches and swales in the fields were full of water, with waterfowl everywhere there was water. This should be a very good year for Ducks Unlimited.
I passed Aberdeen, South Dakota and camped at Mina Lake State Recreation Area. It was South Dakota's free weekend and the vehicle pass fee was waived. I'll take that! Thank you very much!
I could pick up wifi signals but had no password for them.

Troubles?

2011-05-28T09:02:00.000-07:00

May 19, 2011

Woke up and had trouble starting the jeep again. Drove to Ladysmith, Wisconsin and found an all night Kwik Trip gas station with coffee. Thank you very much! Julie that works there was very pleasent.

This is decision time - south to Eau Clair if I need a new starter motor or west on US-8 to Minnesota.

I decided to wait for daylight and call Richard Howell at Shelby Tire in Utica to take him up on his offer of help if I needed it. By daylight I had thought through all of the symptons and possible causes. That toolbag of mine may end up being very handy if I have to replace the starter motor. I would have the wrenches needed or could improvise if I didn't.

The easiest to fix cause would be corroded battery terminals. I'll try that first.

Yes, they were corroded and I took care of that. It works. I'm still going to call Richard when he gets into work. I called him and he said he could next day ship parts if I needed anything and locate mechanics for me too. A good thing to know and great place to do business with. Thanks Richard!

Now on to Minnesota. Crossed at St. Croix Falls into Minnesota. Two miles downhill on a 7-9% grade with a 30mph turn at the bottom then up again. No time for pictures with all that going on but it was very pretty.

Made it around Minneapolis/St. Paul before afternoon rush hour and camped at Lake Ripley near Litchfield.

Making Up Miles

2011-05-28T08:54:00.000-07:00

May 18, 2011

It sprinkled rain as I broke camp but stopped before I had to fold the tarp. The rope for tie downs worked and practice will help. I may have brought too many toys; that toolbag of mine was the hardest thing to find a spot for.

Time to start moving west. Manistique, Rapid River, Escanaba all those names bring back memories of my days with the Highway Dept. and Michigan Tech.

I picked US-8 as my route across Wisconsin and crossed the state line at 4:00 pm. I had recalulated the required daily average miles for the June 21st deadline and upped it from 150 to 200.

Clouds started breaking 26 miles east of Rhinelander, Wisconsin; great sunset and I couldn't find a place for a picture without a cell tower or power lines in the way. I kept driving until I got tired.

The wayside rest area east of Catawba was closed but I found a sign for for Flambeau River Campground at Hawkins. I went looking for that. Nine miles later I found the state forest. I parked, got out and started hearing noises that weren't any I was making. Recalling another sign I had seen without mileage either, pointing in the same direction, had said "Correctional Facility". I rethought tonight's plan and decided to head back to a closed gas station I had seen in Hawkins.

The starter motor on the jeep didn't sound right. It finally started on the third try.

As I was leaving the parking area I saw a deer cross the road. I didn't bother to stop and ask if it was the one making the noise.

I slept in the jeep at the station and my opinion of that hasn't changed since the last time.

Carrying On

2011-05-28T08:10:00.000-07:00

May 17, 2011

4 hours later and wide awake. The seat in the jeep is hard to sleep in when it can't be reclined. How April kicked the windshield out of Justin's while setting in the seat I will never know. The next rest area's coffee vending machine didn't work; the next one had no vending machines. This is going to be a very long night. At Mackinaw I found coffee and got one picture of the lights on the bridge. Hand holding the camera for a one second exposure was tough for me even with the image stabilizer in the lens. Crossed the bridge at 5:00am and parked at McDonald's to wait for the stores in St. Ignace to open. I need something for tie downs for the tarp. Ratchet straps are difficult to work with.

As dawn was breaking I saw a gull flying west of me. With each beat of it's wings it's white under belly would show and it reminded me of a slow strobe light or flash used in photography for multi-exposures. Then I got out of the jeep and realized it may not have been "Dawn's early light" doing that. It could have been just the parking lot lights at McDonald's. I thought I would give their wifi a try. Or, not! getting the laptop out would be a real challenge.

Refueled and shopped at Ace Hardware for tie downs. Settled on rope because I couldn't find cam straps long enough.

Heading west on US-2 I though I saw an eagle in a tree. As I turned around to check it out I remembered the gull and wondered aloud that this might just be a black garbage bag caught in a tree. Nope! It was a Bald Eagle and I got one picture before it flew.

The Cut River Bridge was my next stop for pictures. The trillium were in bloom and I took pictures of those. Walking to the bridge I saw a male Scarlet Tanager. Each time he perched long enough for a portrait something would be in the way. Amanda, does that remind you of you trying to get pictures of the one at our house?

I decided to camp at Big Knob State Forest Campground west of Naubinway and re-organize my stuff. Most used on the top and more accessible; who would have ever thought of that?

Twenty-three campsites and I was the only one there. The black flies were bad, but the bug spray that Betty had bought for me took care of that. THANKS, HONEY!!! Sportsman Extreme she had found on clearance at Meijer's.

It was a beautiful clear day, but re-organizing took most of the day. I also got a good night's sleep thanks to Betty's tulle. It kept the bugs at bay all night and didn't weigh enough to disturb my sleep. THANKS AGAIN, Betty!!! You have some pretty good ideas.

Getting Started

2011-05-27T13:55:00.000-07:00

May 16, 2011

3:00pm; Left home for my trip to Alaska 30 hours later than planned. The rain yesterday didn't help, but today was better for the final packing, even if it was cold and cloudy. First stop was Rocks & Roots to weigh the rig. Tongue weight was a little heavy but okay for now.

I will reshuffle the load as I use stuff. Stopped by Tractor Supply to check for straps for the tarp awning. No luck there. I'll keep trying.

Oops! I forgot to call the credit card company to tell them about my trip. I ask for a 120 day window on their fraud protection system. It would only allow 60 days. OK! I will call them again in 50 days or so.

The weather started clearing to the northwest by the time I reached Clio. Refuled at West Branch and decided to drive to the Mackinaw Bridge. At the rest area near Grayling I pulled over to sleep.

Technical Difficulties.....

2011-05-24T06:09:00.000-07:00

My Dad wanted to apologize to everyone for not posting anything yet. He's surprised at the lack of McDonald's along the route he's taking. He'll try to get something up as soon as he can.

In the meantime enjoy a photo of some ducks. :)